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The Bezabor Log

"The Bezabor Log" is my online diary since retiring in September 2005. My blogging name,'Bezabor', is an archaic term used mostly by canallers in the 1800's and early 1900's. It refers to a rascally, stubborn old mule. In the Log, I refer to my wife as 'Labashi', a name she made up as a little girl. She had decided if ever she had a puppy, she'd call it 'McCulla' or 'Labashi'. I'm not sure how to spell the former so Labashi it is. Emails welcome at bezabor(at)gmail.com.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Attacked By Desert Monster ; Arcosanti ; Organ Pipe National Monument ; Yuma ; San Diego

(posted from American Flyer Coffee Company, Williams, AZ)
(This post covers 9 -14 April, 2010)


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Wednesday, 14 April-

This morning we continued up Route 101 into Oceanside and took a turn round the harbor marina looking at boats. We then headed inland across Route 76 to I-15, up through Temecula, then east via SR74 into the San Bernadino National Forest. After a long climb to the top we crossed beautiful meadows to the Pacific Crest Trail crossing. There we took a four-mile hike north and then had a late lunch in the parking lot upon our return.
We then continued across the National Forest and then down a steep, winding descent into Palm Desert. We visited the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument visitor's center for a break, then continued on to Palm Springs.
From Palm Springs we took SR62 to Joshua Tree National Park, arriving just after the visitor's center closed at 1700. But we were able to pick up a map so we entered the park just as the light was turning reddish. What a sight!
We found a nice pulloff with a view and had supper while the shadows began to fill in the rugged hillsides. In the last hour of daylight we went looking for our campsite and found the campgrounds at Hidden Valley and Ryan's were full. But we did find a great spot at Jumbo Rock.
I still wanted a bit of a walk so walked through the campground, then blogged. Labashi read her Nevada Barr book, “Blind Descent”.

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Tuesday, 13 April-

After our showers and breakfast this morning we drove up to Point Loma and the Cabrillo National Monument. We had perfect weather up there and stayed a long time watching the many planes, helicopters, and ships in action.
We then drove up the coast to La Jolla Cove. We walked around the cove and watched the seals for awhile. Across the bay we could see hang-gliders and paragliders so we drove up to the GliderPort and watched them take off and land.
We then took a long walk at Torrey Pines State Reserve in the late afternoon. We took the Guy Fleming Trail which had lots of variety and surprises.
We then drove north through Del Mar, Solana Beach, and Cardiff-By-The-Sea before reaching Carlsbad State Beach and our campsite for the night. The campsites there are on a high bluff overlooking the ocean so we could watch the tiny little surfers below until darkness came on. At sunset we took a long walk to the lower end of the campground but after returning to the van I was still antsy so walked to the upper end and back and was surprised how long this campground was. It has over 200 sites and they seem to stretch to the horizon. In any case all the walking was good for me... I slept SO well.

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Monday, 12 April-

Last night we rented a movie from the Redbox and watched Michael Moore's “Capitalism-- A Love Affair”. We were interrupted in the middle of the movie by the security guy. The guy asked us to move, then said it wasn't a Wal-mart policy that we move but the city has an ordinance about sleeping in a vehicle overnight. But he did say we could just move next door to a parking lot there. Now it made no sense to us that the city ordinance wouldn't also apply there but we moved to appease the security guy.
This morning we had some shopping to do in the Wal-mart so I asked a manager what the story is. It seems the city of Yuma does not extend as far as the Wal-mart location but they annexed the Wal-mart property (only) to the city in order to collect taxes from them. But that also means the parking lot beside the Wal-mart property is county, not city property. The manager also said Yuma police are ticketing without warning and the tickets are very expensive so I'm glad we moved.
We drove on into California within minutes of leaving Yuma. The Imperial Dunes are right on the border, running along both sides of I-8 and are quite a sight to see in this area.
We then exited the interstate to go into Calexico and took a short drive down to the border entrance station. Once we exited the interstate and until we got back on we were surprised to see how extensive the agriculture is. It's all irrigated, of course, by the fields are huge and perfectly tended.
Once back on I-8 we began climbing from something like 300 feet to 7000 feet. Once in San Diego County we took the Sunrise Highway exit and began winding our way through the Cleveland National Forest. I've been on this road several times and it has always been beautiful but today it was windy and cold. The visitor's center at Mount Laguna and the campgrounds are closed though we did visit the Laguna Mountain Lodge store. We then drove on a short distance and had lunch at the Desert View picnic grounds where we had a miles-and-miles-long view of the desert the whole way to the Salton Sea.
We then continued north to the little town of Julian. I've been there on a summer weekend when the streets were lined with motorcycles and fancy convertibles but today it was just the Europeans and us walking the streets to check out the shops.
After Julian we returned to I-8 via Cuyamaca Rancho State Park and again, everything was locked up. But I was glad to see that the fire damage to this area wasn't as bad as I had feared. We could most of the trees had been blackened but they had fresh growth and the understory was filling in again.
We continued west on I-8 into San Diego. We went looking for a campsite right away and found a dry-camping spot at CampLand on Mission Bay for $39. That seems like a lot for what was essentially a parking space but on the other hand it was right on Mission Bay and had a great view across the bay to the city.
We drove into the city around the harbor and ended up behind the convention center. We walked to a restaurant I had really liked on a previous visit but it had since changed hands so we instead had supper at Joe's Crab House. We had very good crab-dip nachos and the plate was so huge that we just left it at that for our meal. Well, that and some giant margaritas.
I then dropped Labashi off at the Fashion Valley Mall to shop a bit. I wasn't interested in the mall experience so drove around a bit refreshing my feel for the San Diego street layout. When I picked her up later on she had found a bargain at Nordstroms.
We returned to the campground and took a short walk around it looking at the lights across the bay. Very nice!

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Sunday, 11 April-

This morning we learned last night's happy ending wasn't so happy after all. The young lady's wallet had apparently been locked up when it was turned in and nobody had the key last night. She had to stay in a motel in Ajo last night and drive back to Organ Pipe this morning. But at least she was able to get it back with all its contents.
This morning we spent several hours driving the Ajo tour road. This 21-mile dirt road took us into the backcountry and led among the distant peaks. The tour guide gave us info about the various plants, animals, and soils. We hadn't been seeing much in the way of wildlife when I spotted a large lizard basking on a rock. I stopped for Labashi to take pictures and after a few shots we got out of Mocha Joe to try for a better angle. As I walked around the back of the van I heard a loud, insect-like buzzing sound.... like a cicada or something. It took me a few seconds to locate the source. It was a rattlesnake--- a Western diamondback coiled in a strike position. I went back to alert Labashi and when we came back the snake was still in its coiled, head-up position but had stopped rattling. We shot photos and video clips for a few minutes and then the rattler seemed to lose its fear and slowly moved away and slid under a bush. The head and neck were very sleek and at first we thought the snake was very young but when we saw the rest of the body it was a little over two feet and about an inch-and-a-half in diameter at its thickest diameter. As we drove away we wondered if we had interrupted its stalk of the basking lizard.
By late morning we finished the tour. We drove to the Mexican border but there was nothing to see so we headed back north and out of Organ Pipe. We stopped for lunch at a roadside table at Why, AZ and then continued up to Interstate 8 at Gila Bend.
We drove west on I-8 for a few hours, fighting a strong headwind all the way. Along the way we came upon Dateland, AZ where we had a 'world famous' date shake. It was very good!
We finally made Yuma late in the afternoon. After a whirlwind drive through the very small historic district we drove to a nearby park and took a break. The park is a nice little city park with a wedding going on and people fishing the pond, walking the paths, strolling the hummingbird garden, playing a bit of disc-golf. We just relaxed and then had a light supper (after the very filling date shake we didn't need much).
As the sun set we drove back east of Yuma to the Wal-mart for the night.


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Saturday, 10 April-

This morning we had breakfast in the Arcosanti dining hall. The meal was simple-- a breakfast bar of cereals, bagels and fresh hard-boiled eggs--- but that was fine with us. We continued talking with our new-found friends.
After breakfast we gave our friends a tour of Mocha Joe and then we both needed to get back on the road. They were headed to Sedona and we to points southwest.
We drove back toward Phoenix. Along the way we saw a Wal-mart so did our re-supply shopping. We also needed butane for our cookstove so we stopped at a motel and used their Yellow Pages phonebook to look up restaurant-supply businesses and make some calls. We finally located the right cartridges across town and chased them down.
We then drove southeast out of Phoenix down Interstate 10 to get to Casa Grande. From there we entered the Tahono Oodam Indian Reservation on our way to Organ Pipe National Monument. We stopped in Sells, AZ, hoping to eat at the Desert Rain native restaurant we had read about but it was closed today.
We made it to Organ Pipe by 1800 and settled in to our campsite. We just finished supper in time for a ranger presentation at the amphitheater. As the presentation started, the ranger said an object had been found at a trailhead this evening and if you had lost something important, let her know. She then did a presentation about the history of the Monument and the area.
Later that evening a Border Patrol vehicle and another car stopped in front of our van, probably because we were the only vehicle with interior lights still showing this late. The Border Patrol agent asked if anyone had been around asking whether we had lost a wallet. A young woman (from the other car) had lost her wallet and was a bit frantic about it. I told him no but the ranger at tonight's presentation had said something had been found at a trailhead. A few phone calls later the very-relieved young lady was re-united with her wallet and was on her way.

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Friday, 9 April-

This morning we had an unpleasant surprise. When I started Mocha Joe, I noticed the engine seemed not to be hitting on all six cylinders. And when I pulled out of our camping spot, it was apparent there was something wrong. We limped up to the bath house for our showers and I took a few minutes to look around in the engine compartment but saw nothing amiss.
When we left the bath house it was apparent we would not be able to go far. At least two of the cylinders weren't firing so departing from a dead stop was almost dangerously slow.
I used the GPS' Find Auto Services function and generated a list of five or six possibilities about five miles away in Apache Junction. The first three turned out to be duds-- either closed or nothing apparently there. 'National Auto Service', for example, was just some guy's house. 'Honest Engine Auto Service' was an empty garage behind a warehouse. After a few more misses we came to 'Roberts Complete Auto Service'. It appeared to be a former gas station, now without pumps, but there were uniformed mechanics working, vehicles on the lifts, and others apparently parked nearby to await their turn for service. It looked like a very busy garage and I thought the chances slim they'd be able to fit me in today.
I explained my problem to the lead mechanic, Howard, and he immediately said he'd be happy to take a look at it right away and felt certain he could fix whatever the problem is. He and another guy took a few minutes to run some tests and remove the extensive air-cleaner ducting for a better view. Within a short time he waved me over. “See that?”, he pointed. “A pack rat ate some of the wires off of the fuel injector and damaged the wire loom and some of the connectors”. Amazingly, Howard said he thought he could fix me up. He was pretty sure he had the right wires and connectors on some of the junker cars behind the shop. And that indeed proved to be the case. What appeared to be a major hassle evaporated. An hour and a half later, we were on the road. The bill was $150-- an hour-and-a-half's labor-- but after seeing the damage the little rat had done, I was glad to pay that bill.
We drove to the nearby Apache Junction library and made a few calls, uploaded the blog and checked email. In our call to Labashi's Dad, he mentioned a trip he had taken years ago to Phoenix. He had visited nearby Arcosanti, a demonstration project to build an energy and space-efficient small city. The project is the brainchild of Paolo Soleri and was begun in the Seventies to much fanfare.
We spent most of the afternoon driving to Arcosanti and arrived just in time for the last tour of the day at 1600. Our hour-long tour gave us the project background and introduced us to our tourguide, Caleb, who is a student at Arcosanti. After our tour Caleb mentioned that we could have dinner in the dining hall as guests so I said we'd like to do that and asked if it would be possible to stay in Mocha Joe overnight in the parking lot.
We had a nice, leisurely dinner with two of the other tourists who had taken the tour, a couple from Traverse City, Michigan. It turns out we had a lot in common and we spent the entire evening with them enjoying a very nice bottle of wine.
Long after everyone else had cleared out of the dining hall we four sat on the balcony sipping wine and telling stories. Our new-found friends had spent a year sailing to and in the Bahamas and we enjoyed hearing about their adventure.
Our friends had booked a room at Arcosanti's guest facility and we were staying in the parking lot so we had plenty of time to work our way through the wine.
Arcosanti itself is quite interesting. You can't call it a city since it only has about a hundred residents but it does have some very unique concepts. Students pay to attend workshops wherein they learn the basics of Soleri's theories of 'arcology'-- architecture and ecology-- and are members of the community supporting Arcosanti. They have work responsibilities which may include work in the forging crews who forge brass or ceramic wind-bells to sell in order to finance the community. Also, teams are constantly developing projects to add on to the community. A greenhouse is under development, for example.
I've not done a very good job of explaining Arcosanti, I'm afraid. On the one hand, it's a utopian project designed to demonstrate Soleri's vision of a future city. But on the other it's a long time coming and it's not at all clear that the ideas are scalable. Does that mean it's a failure or simply that change is incremental?
I do think the experience is probably very good for the students. They participate very deeply in the community and that can't be a bad thing.

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