Bezabor: Moose! (written from the South Branch (of the Penobscott) Maine Public Lands Reserve campsite, off SR201, just south of the Quebec border. Posted 9/26/05 from the Caribou, Maine Public Library)

Wednesday, 9/21/05-- We spent last night at our first Maine Public Lands campsite and we’re doing it again tonight. You can’t beat the price--- free!

This morning we stopped at an outfitter along the Kennebec River and found that he had the same type of kayak boots we had recently bought for Labashi. She loves them and as the waters get colder I’m going to need something more than my Teva sandals. They both had my size and gave me a 25% discount. Life is good!

We needed a walk so decided we’d find an Appalachian Trail crossing and hike one way or the other to just sample the trail in this area (‘The Forks’ area). I’ve completed the AT in Pennsylvania and wanted to get a feel for the trail here. We found a good looking spot on the map at the end of Moxie Lake — we could get a look at the Lake as we drove in and then hike either direction from the trail crossing.

The drive past Moxie Lake was an interesting one--- about eight miles of one-lane dirt road with lots of lakeside cabins at the beginning and then thinning out at the end to the point where if felt (and looked) a lot more remote. It seemed odd that it was such a beautiful day--- sunny and mid-seventies --- and nobody was about.

Shortly after our arrival at the AT crossing, an AT thru-hiker appeared. His trail-name was ‘Clearwater’ and he had started the trail last March at Stone Mountain, Georgia and was proud that he was going to make it to Maine’s Mount Katahdin in under six months. Labashi gave him some water. Then she gave him our stash of M&M Peanuts (the whole bag !!!!) and then some rye bread, all of which he appreciated. Then another thru-hiker came along --- “Jax”, who was from Albuquerque. Labashi again offered water and rye bread and Clearwater gave him half of the M&M peanuts. The hikers took a break and talked with us for 20 minutes or so about life on the trail --- long enough for Jax to break out his tobacco pouch, get out his cigarette papers and roll a cigarette and smoke it. We liked that his slowly and methodically preparing, rolling and then smoking his cigarette hearkened back to an earlier time. It somehow seemed an action from an era long past—when it was routine to stop along the road and chat with strangers and enjoy each other’s company.

The AT thru-hikers have a term for people who give them food or free rides into town—it’s ‘trail angels’. So we did our trail-angel stint at Moxie Lake.

When Clearwater and Jax moved on, we got organized and started north on the trail but quickly hit a ford that would require some serious rock-hopping or some wading to get across. We decided to instead go southbound and entered the woods for a pleasant walk along several bogs and then started a steady climb. We had only planned a short walk so when we found ourselves facing an ever-steeper uphill slog an hour or so later, we turned back. Labashi took some mushroom photos and we were amazed at the extensive construction work a beaver (or family of beavers) had done to dam up one of the bog areas. The dam was easily seven feet high at the highest section. As we continued easing along the trail we came alongside a marshy area. We heard something in the water. At first I assumed it must be busy Mr. Beaver for it was not far from the beaver dam. But as I peered intently through the brush, I heard a swishing sound in the water and saw that it was a moose, raising her head with a mouthful of boggy greens. Fantastic!

We immediately froze—the moose was only 15 yards away and in deep brush in the marsh. We couldn’t get a picture there. Ms. Moose started moving in a direction parallel to our trail so we tried to creep along as quietly as possible, hoping for an opening and a photo opportunity. We finally emerged in a good spot but by that time the moose knew we were there and we only were able to dash off a few quick shots of her through the undergrowth as she turned and went splashing off. But still a great encounter! Much better than just seeing one along the road or at the distant end of a lake.

We finished up our hike and had a late lunch in the van--- wonderful genoa salami and cheese on rye bread--- then we were off. We moved on to the Moxie Falls trailhead about ten miles away, seeing a small family flock of six wild turkeys along the way. Moxie Falls is reportedly the tallest waterfall in New England. It’s 90 feet tall and was a nice add-on to our AT walk—another hour on the trail to add to our two earlier today.

Afterwards we headed up SR 201 through Jackman, where we stopped at the bank to use the ATM. No problem using our card there. We then continued up the scenic route (still SR 201) to the Canadian border where we turned around. A sign told us it was less than 100 miles to Quebec City but we had been there on vacation a few years ago so we decided to pass this time. But we have to get back there soon. We just love the feeling of Quebec.

It was after 1700 hours and we needed to find a place for the night soon so we didn’t have to arrive after dark. Labashi found a Maine Public Lands Reserve campsite for us on the Gazetteer. It was an odd one – just a two-track stone lane with a sign on a tree saying it’s a designated camping area. There was no fire-ring or campsite of any kind apparent. But that’s ok--- it was in a beautiful spot near a stream and in an open area with views in all directions. We’ll take those anytime!